Asturias--Paraíso Natural

I checked a calendar today, and was surprised to discover how little time I've actually been here. I suppose time moves at a snail's pace when your communication does. I have been here about two weeks now and I'm amazed at how much more I've already learned of the language--countless new vocabulary, how to write a polite e-mail, the whole vosotros thing . . . . At the same time, I feel like I have had a proper conversation maybe twice. Most times it's like my language is cold cold molasses oozing it's way out, and making a big ol' mess in the process.

I've also gotten pretty good at filling in the gaps. Spaniards talk RIDICULOUSLY fast. I maybe only really hear half of the words. But, you just have to push through and figure it out, because you can only say "¿qué? ¿cómo? ¿perdón?" so many times without completely losing everyone's patience. Of course, there are plenty of times I miss a key word and totally lampoon myself (last week I was waiting for a train to the beach when a kind old man approached me rattling on about something or another. After nodding dumbly and saying "sí, sí" a lot, I somehow ended up with a free train ticket to parts unknown. I suppose worse things could have happened).

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I keep thinking I need to do an elaborate post about the city I live in now. Days where it is both sunny and I have my camera with my are exceedingly rare however, especially considering I live in a very similar climate to the Pacific Northwest. Although it's prettier with sun, I'll just have to bite the bullet and show you all the cloudy truth.

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I have had quite a few opportunities to explore the region, thanks to a few generous people with cars. The first days I was here, I stayed with my host-family's sister, Yoli. She took me to the major port city Gijón and other lovely coast areas. (Note the sunny, clear day)



Today I was able to explore Asturias even more. The University has a program called a-Duo, which pairs you up with a local to help you get settled in an everything. Usually he or she just finds you an apartment and holds your hand in registering, but Víctor and I got along well so we've been hanging out a little bit. His friend (nicknamed "Monky") has a car, so today we did a big touristy tour of Asturias.

First, we drove about an hour to Cangas de Onís. As with everything in Europe, there is a mountain of history about everything. I guess it was the first capital of Spain, in the middle ages. Which is really just saying it was the capital of Asturias, because everything south of here was owned by Muslims. So there's tons of history with King Pelayo, the first king, who the current king is actually related to.

Here's a Roman bridge. From the 2nd or 3rd century (but reconstructed more recently). That cross beneath it appears on the Asturian flag.

Next we went further up into the mountains to Covadonga. This is where the Prince of Spain is crowned, in a beautiful church atop a hill, surrounded by wooded mountains. We had quite a time parking the car. That is something I think I never want to try here. We drove in and out of numerous garage-sized areas overflowing with double-parked Renaults, to no avail. Finally, we created a spot on the shoulder of a steep (45˚!) hill, only to be rear-ended by a geriatric Barcelonian in a comically huge BMW. Turns out he overshot the turn of the aforementioned hill and, in trying to right himself, put the car in 'drive' instead of 'reverse' . . . .

So after that fiasco, and being now reparked, we continued. Here is the church -->. Some very rich people were getting married at the time, with traditional bagpipes playing and everything. They are all about bagpipes in northern Spain.

Nearby the church is a cave which opens into a large alcove containing the shrine to the Virgin of Covadonga. (To the right of Víctor and I in this photo is the entrance; no photography allowed.)

Below the shrine is a small fountain. Legend has it that if you drink from all seven of the spouts, you'll get married within one year. Despite my better judgment, I decided to risk my bachelorhood on this superstitious fountain.


Only afterward, however, did I see this informative little sign. It basically reads "No promise this water is sanitary." Turns out I was taking a different risk than I had thought! If I get giardia I damnwell better get someone to care for me in sickness and in health as well.


After Covadonga, we took the winding narrow highway to the coast. One place we stopped along the coast is called Lastres. It's a quaint little village perched precariously on a cliff above the sea.


It's a really idyllic place, with narrow cobbled streets winding up the steep steep hills. In many places it's just stairs between the houses, and yet somehow people still get their cars in--insanity I tell you.


So, that's that. I'm slowly but surely checking off my must-see sights. Ever since I saw this video on youtube months ago I've wanted to personally experience all I can of this region. It really is a natural paradise, with mountains, sandy beaches, cliffs, lakes, and everywhere green green green! Even better, Spaniards can't go more than a few weeks without having some kind of holiday involving 3- or 4-day weekends. Now, what to do Monday . . .